Sunday, August 29, 2010

Restaurant Kevin Taylor's New Digs

I myself have had a fine meal or two at Denver's only 4-star, 4-diamond restaurant, and it has always served to please. Beautiful food accompanied by classically-executed service is something to be appreciated, and in its own way is a fading art in a more casual dining scene as of late. But now, in addition, Restaurant Kevin Taylor (RKT) has upped the ante with a dining room makeover. 


Before (Courtesy: Denver.org)
After
 
Courtesy: KTRG
As I walked into the Hotel Teatro lobby for an opening luncheon, I almost didn't even recognize the place. What used to be a traditionally adorned, white-tablecloth atmosphere was now transformed into a fine balance between elegant and contemporary. "Dark paneling contrasted by stark white walls create drama highlighted by stunning natural seashell and Swarovski chandeliers suspended from 18' ceilings" (KTRG).  By themselves the chandeliers attract the eye, but are complementary to the other decor elements as opposed to distracting. According to RKT's private events coordinator Whitney Skylar, the vision of the renovation came from using the chandeliers as a centerpiece, and working around them. In addition, William Havu Gallery presented a few abstract pieces by Emilio Lobato and Dale Chisman that rounds out the presentation with a little color, and will leave you screaming "encore!"


Courtesy: KTRG
And encore they did. This specific afternoon, Kevin provided a meal that embodied the love of an indian summer. The tablescapes on the ebonized Makassar wood tables are simple, and centrally adorned by a unique hand-blown vase (created by their own chef Mike Saul). A tinge of bright color steals your eye in the midst of darks and lights, but the other thing that shines through is the colorful presentation of the food. And that's why I was there in the first place. 
 

The luncheon offered us all a delightful taste of RKT's current seasonal menu. The afternoon's primi: Butternut Squash Gnocchi (roast apples, white asparagus, micro celery, truffle blue cheese cream).  The dish was deeply layered with tangy blue cheese notes, sweetness from the apples and earthy truffle. Textural contrasts of the celery and asparagus complemented the slightly firm gnocchi. 


Entree: Herb Crusted Roast Salmon (sweet potato puree, red beets, sunburst squash, bearnaise). Buttery, silky salmon and crisp squash medley. Nicely paired with a Cotes du Rhone that pulled the tarragon straight forward.


Dessert: Bittersweet Chocolate Parfait (concentrated raspberries, malted chocolate bubbles, crystallized peanuts) A fluffy, rich palate-coating dessert that wrapped the meal up with a bow. Nicely done.



Overall a very nice afternoon, one that brought Restaurant Kevin Taylor into a new light for me. Kudos to all involved on the renovations. I look forward to going back and encourage you to try Restaurant Kevin Taylor for yourself (or at least one of his other restaurants in the catalog).

Notes: 
Average Entree:  $35
Three course tasting menu: $45 per person
Private Mezzanine and Wine Cellar available for private parties
Closed Sunday

Restaurant Kevin Taylor on Urbanspoon

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