- The Denver Dish
The Restaurant: Formerly known as Simms Landing
I remember way back- to when Simms Landing sat atop the hill in Lakewood, and boasted one of the finer views in Denver. My family had enjoyed brunch or dinner for a special occasion or two, leaving me with memories so far back they were fuzzy at best. They would come back ever so slightly every time I drove by the shack-esque restaurant- likely hundreds of times in the past 20 years. But I never found myself back there until recently. Understanding that they underwent quite a makeover and were boasting an upscaled menu, I took the opportunity to join them for the first of a series of Chef Dinners, highlighting Joseph Hsu's cuisine.
We took a seat as the sun set over the city, and enjoyed the company of a few others at our table while the service team got us started with an aperitif of rose champagne. With a room packed full of regulars, it was apparent that Simms wants to offer more than a dining experience. They want to make you feel at home. We progressed flawlessly course by course, and enjoyed getting to know a bit of Chef Hsu's background through his cuisine. A few highlights:
Pork belly w/ Hoisin BBQ on a steamed bun with cucumber relish- a blend of Asian and Polynesian flavors with some kick- and well complemented by sweet cucumber. More sauce would have really drove this one home for me, but overall a good start to the meal.
I'm still talking about this one: Texas Venison Wellington- tenderloin encased in buttery brioche (only a bit much) w cognac demi, morel mushrooms and foie gras. The meat itself was tender and flavorful, yet not overpowered by the rest of the rich elements.
On top of the food, I found the team service culture refreshing. Entrees being dropped in unison with a meticulous attention to detail brought the experience to the next level. After all, there's nothing worse than enjoying a fine meal with aloof service. Fair to say in summary that the food was good, and the service was great. It was enough to bring me back, and though we're in a market where prime steakhouses like Elway's and Shanahan's dominate the scene, I would likely find myself back here on a more regular basis since it's more fitting from a cost standpoint.
You won't find any 50 dollar steaks here, but then again you get what you pay for. Call it what it is, The Steakhouse upgrade to Simms definitely makes the Denver icon more relevant in today's dining culture. And thanks to a powerful network of local chefs under the Landry's umbrella, chef Hsu will continue to collaborate over the next few weeks with The Oceanaire, Mortons, and the Chart House to deliver some fine dinners in and around Denver. Glad to see that Simms is still on the map. Dish It Up!
Rating: Good (2 dishes out of 4)
Happy Hour 4-7 daily
Complimentary valet is available, or if you prefer you can go for a hike
Avg Entree: $30
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